# Grok — raw output, 2026-09-14 09:19 (+07), free, default "Fast" mode, normal chat, one message, no follow-ups Interface Russian; answer in English. Copied with the reply's copy button. Chat URL kept open for review. --- **The most common cause of a drip from the spout on a single-lever mixer basin tap (torneira monocomando / misturadora monocomando) is a worn ceramic cartridge (cartucho cerâmico).** This is a straightforward DIY job for a 10-year-old tap if the parts are accessible and not seized. ### What to buy (and what to ask for in a Portuguese hardware shop) Take the old cartridge with you for an exact match — sizes and shapes vary (common diameters are 35 mm or 40 mm; some are 25 mm). Brand-specific ones exist, but many shops stock universal/compatible ceramic cartridges. - **Cartucho cerâmico para torneira monocomando** (or “cartucho para misturadora monocomando”). Ask: “Preciso de um cartucho cerâmico de substituição para esta torneira monocomando de lavatório. Pode comparar com o velho?” Available at Leroy Merlin, Brico Dépôt, Maxmat, or local lojas de ferragens / material de construção / lojas de canalizações. Cost is typically low (a few euros to ~20 €). Optional extras (good to have): - Silicone grease suitable for plumbing (massa lubrificante de silicone or graxa de silicone para torneiras) — thin layer on seals helps. - Cloths, and possibly white vinegar for light descaling if you see limescale. Do **not** buy a washer/repair kit meant for traditional compression taps — those won’t fit a single-lever mixer. ### Tools you need - Small flat-blade screwdriver (chave de fenda fina) — for the indicator cap. - Allen key / hex key set (chave Allen or chave sextavada), especially 2 mm or 2.5 mm — most common for the grub screw. - Adjustable spanner / wrench (chave inglesa or chave ajustável) — for the retaining nut. - Optional: pliers (alicate), cloth to protect chrome, soft brush. Most of these are basic and cheap at the same shops. ### Steps in order 1. **Turn off the water** Look under the basin for isolation valves (válvulas de isolamento / registos / torneiras de passagem) on the hot and cold flexible hoses. Turn them clockwise (or 90° if ball-type) to shut off. If none exist, turn off the main stopcock (registo geral) for the house. Open the tap fully to drain residual water and confirm it is off. Plug the basin drain so small parts can’t fall in. 2. **Remove the handle** Find the small coloured indicator cap (red/blue) on the handle (front, side or underside). Gently pry it off with the flat screwdriver. Loosen the grub screw underneath with the correct Allen key (usually 2–2.5 mm). You often only need to loosen it, not remove it fully. Lift the handle straight off. 3. **Remove the decorative shroud/cover** Unscrew the chrome dome or cover by hand (or carefully with cloth-protected pliers if tight). This exposes the brass retaining nut. 4. **Remove the old cartridge** Unscrew the large brass retaining nut with the adjustable spanner (counter-clockwise). Lift the cartridge straight out. Note its orientation carefully — take a photo. It usually has two plastic locating lugs/pins that fit into holes in the body. Clean the inside of the tap body with a cloth (and a bit of vinegar if scaled). Remove any debris. 5. **Fit the new cartridge** Insert the new one in exactly the same orientation, ensuring the locating lugs drop into the holes. It should seat firmly and not rotate freely. Optionally apply a thin film of silicone grease to the rubber seals. Refit and tighten the brass retaining nut firmly but do **not** overtighten (this can crack the cartridge or distort seals). Screw the decorative shroud back on by hand. 6. **Refit the handle** Slide the handle back on, tighten the grub screw, and replace the indicator cap. 7. **Turn the water back on and test** Slowly open the isolation valves (or main stopcock). Check for leaks around the cartridge area and base. Operate the lever fully through hot/cold and on/off. There should be no drip from the spout when closed, and movement should feel smooth. The whole job usually takes 20–40 minutes once you have the right cartridge. ### When to stop and call a plumber - No isolation valves and you cannot easily turn off the main water supply safely. - The handle, shroud, or retaining nut is seized/corroded and will not move without excessive force (risk of damaging the tap body or chrome). - The cartridge will not come out, or the locating holes/body are damaged. - You cannot find a matching cartridge (some older or obscure brands need special parts; replacing the whole tap may then be cheaper/easier). - After fitting a correct new cartridge there is still a drip, or water leaks from joints under the basin, or the body itself is cracked. - Anything feels structurally wrong (e.g., the tap body moves or flexes) or you are simply not confident continuing. If the drip is from the base of the tap (not the spout) it may instead be O-rings on a swivel spout — a different, still-simple job, but again match parts carefully. For a 10-year-old tap that is otherwise in good condition, cartridge replacement solves the spout drip in the large majority of cases. Good luck — take photos as you go and it should be manageable. --- First read: all six steps in order, plug-the-basin tip, three cartridge diameters, Portuguese for the valves ("válvulas de isolamento / registos / torneiras de passagem") and the stopcock ("registo geral"), shops named (Leroy Merlin, Brico Dépôt, Maxmat). Warns not to buy a compression-tap washer kit. Stop-and-call list is full. Checks in the sheet.